Blended Noodle Congee

Here’s what to make when you’re recovering from food poisoning and the only thing you can stomach is congee, except you don’t have rice because: a) You live in Hong Kong and your apartment is too small to store a sack of rice. b) You live in Hong Kong and your countertop is too small […]

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Komorebi Highball

  “Komorebi is an untranslatable word, which refers to the effect of sunlight streaming through the leaves of the trees, creating a dance between the light and the leaves.” Komorebi. A state of mind. An invitation to slow down, to look deeper, to be fully in the moment. Forget your destination. It is the path that […]

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Fish Drippings v.2– Red Grouper

She shimmered like a ruby among sapphires beneath the halo of a red-rimmed incandescent lamp. In her mirror eyes, my reflection stared back at me, wide-eyed at this radiant creature with its gills taut, scales glistening, vibrant in all her hues. Has there ever been a more beautiful fish? One so positively bursting with freshness, […]

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“Ma-Gong” Silver Pin Noodles (麻公銀針粉)

Someday, I’m gonna be an old man. Say 92. Hopefully not pock-marked. But likely sun-spotted, crow-footed, maybe permanently bent over. But I’ll have a lifetime of honed cooking chops and at least one surefire recipe the kids ’round my block will be begging for:


(“麻公 銀針粉”)

(“Ma Gong Ngan Tsum Fun”)

And you can be damn sure that I’ll feed them all.

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Steamed Egg Custard, Two Ways

Here’s a quick followup to my crab recipe. Traditionally, Crab with Shaoxing wine is steamed with egg whites as a kind of filler. With the addition of noodles, egg whites aren’t necessary; also, I wanted the broth to be completely clear because hey, consommé is a beautiful thing. As a nod to the traditional recipe, […]

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Crack Slurp, v.1

I’m inspired once again by the brilliant Lady and Pups, who coined the term Crack Slurp and divulged its secrets to readers across the world. But for me, the DNA of Crack Slurp had already long been familiar. From Snack Planet’s cold noodles with black vinegar and wood-ear mushrooms in Chicago; to White Bear’s wontons in chili oil in Flushing, […]

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Salted Duck Egg Carbonara

Carbonara. A dish that lives or dies by the egg. When done properly, its one of the most sublime examples of minimalist, technique-driven cooking in the world.   Thankfully, it’s easy to master. Here’s how it works: Fresh Egg Yolk: Creamy fat. Guanciale: Smoky fat. Pecorino Romano: Salty fat. Fat + pasta water = an […]

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Falling Noodles 2.0

Hey! It’s been a while. Until I checked the date last week, I was quite certain that it had been just a few months since I last wrote. Has it really been over a year? Was Tokyo really 2016? It seems like yesterday; the Haneda breeze still feels silken on my skin. Then I remember: […]

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