Here’s what to make when you’re recovering from food poisoning and the only thing you can stomach is congee, except you don’t have rice because: a) You live in Hong Kong and your apartment is too small to store a sack of rice. b) You live in Hong Kong and your countertop is too small […]Read More Blended Noodle Congee
“Komorebi is an untranslatable word, which refers to the effect of sunlight streaming through the leaves of the trees, creating a dance between the light and the leaves.” Komorebi. A state of mind. An invitation to slow down, to look deeper, to be fully in the moment. Forget your destination. It is the path that […]Read More Komorebi Highball
She shimmered like a ruby among sapphires beneath the halo of a red-rimmed incandescent lamp. In her mirror eyes, my reflection stared back at me, wide-eyed at this radiant creature with its gills taut, scales glistening, vibrant in all her hues. Has there ever been a more beautiful fish? One so positively bursting with freshness, […]Read More Fish Drippings v.2– Red Grouper
Someday, I’m gonna be an old man. Say 92. Hopefully not pock-marked. But likely sun-spotted, crow-footed, maybe permanently bent over. But I’ll have a lifetime of honed cooking chops and at least one surefire recipe the kids ’round my block will be begging for:
“OLD GRANNY MAN’S SILVER PIN NOODLES.”
(“Ma Gong Ngan Tsum Fun”)
And you can be damn sure that I’ll feed them all.Read More “Ma-Gong” Silver Pin Noodles (麻公銀針粉)
“This is not a dish from my childhood. This is not won ton mein, window meats, or dim sum. This is not fried rice, sizzling beef, or char siu bao. Those were the Chinese of my childhood. This is the Chinese of my rebirth.” DEAR READER, What do you think about Chinese food? Tasty? Sometimes. Nostalgic? Sure. Cool? […]Read More Biang Biang Mian: China’s Proof of Cool
Here’s a quick followup to my crab recipe. Traditionally, Crab with Shaoxing wine is steamed with egg whites as a kind of filler. With the addition of noodles, egg whites aren’t necessary; also, I wanted the broth to be completely clear because hey, consommé is a beautiful thing. As a nod to the traditional recipe, […]Read More Steamed Egg Custard, Two Ways
Let’s talk about Cantonese cuisine for a moment.
Among China’s eight major culinary traditions, it’s often described as the most refined. But what do people mean when they say that? And is it true?
Invariably, the claim always traces back to the maxim that rules over all Cantonese food:
“Always preserve the food’s natural flavor.”Read More RECIPE: Flower Crab with Aged Shaoxing Wine and Chicken Oil
I’m inspired once again by the brilliant Lady and Pups, who coined the term Crack Slurp and divulged its secrets to readers across the world. But for me, the DNA of Crack Slurp had already long been familiar. From Snack Planet’s cold noodles with black vinegar and wood-ear mushrooms in Chicago; to White Bear’s wontons in chili oil in Flushing, […]Read More Crack Slurp, v.1
Carbonara. A dish that lives or dies by the egg. When done properly, its one of the most sublime examples of minimalist, technique-driven cooking in the world. Thankfully, it’s easy to master. Here’s how it works: Fresh Egg Yolk: Creamy fat. Guanciale: Smoky fat. Pecorino Romano: Salty fat. Fat + pasta water = an […]Read More Salted Duck Egg Carbonara
Hey! It’s been a while. Until I checked the date last week, I was quite certain that it had been just a few months since I last wrote. Has it really been over a year? Was Tokyo really 2016? It seems like yesterday; the Haneda breeze still feels silken on my skin. Then I remember: […]Read More Falling Noodles 2.0