Biang Biang Mian: China’s Proof of Cool

“This is not a dish from my childhood. This is not won ton mein, window meats, or dim sum. This is not fried rice, sizzling beef, or char siu bao. Those were the Chinese of my childhood. This is the Chinese of my rebirth.” DEAR READER, What do you think about Chinese food? Tasty? Sometimes. Nostalgic? Sure. Cool? […]

Steamed Egg Custard, Two Ways

Here’s a quick followup to my crab recipe. Traditionally, Crab with Shaoxing wine is steamed with egg whites as a kind of filler. With the addition of noodles, egg whites aren’t necessary; also, I wanted the broth to be completely clear because hey, consommé is a beautiful thing. As a nod to the traditional recipe, […]

RECIPE: Flower Crab with Aged Shaoxing Wine and Chicken Oil

Let’s talk about Cantonese cuisine for a moment.

Among China’s eight major culinary traditions, it’s often described as the most refined. But what do people mean when they say that? And is it true?

Invariably, the claim always traces back to the maxim that rules over all Cantonese food:

“Always preserve the food’s natural flavor.”